As the world go on down its ongoing way of insane, is getting into a plate of pasta followed by one more plate of pasta and calling it supper the way of dealing with stress representing things to come? You’d suspect as much, based on the group at Nonna Dora’s Pasta Bar. The usual methodology of these pastivores is to stun themselves with starch, stacking up on carbs as though they had a significant long distance race to run toward the beginning of the day. “I host get-togethers of three coming in and requesting five pastas,” says proprietor Nicola Marzovilla, who opened the 28-stool spot in a depressed strip shopping center in Kips Bay in February. “Since there’s no proteins on the menu, rather than simply doing pasta, they’re doing pasta, and afterward they’re doing more pasta.” And who can fault them considering the lady at the core of the activity is guaranteed pasta granny and Nicola’s mom, Dora Marzovilla, a.k.a. Nonna Dora?
For a very long time, at Nicola’s Puglian café I Trulli on 27th Street, Dora rolled and formed the mixture with the lightning speed and deft finger work of a three-card-monte man, acquiring her the moniker the Human Pasta Machine. However, it’s just since her 2019 appearance in a Pasta Grannies YouTube video that she’s turned into a web star. That video sired more recordings, and soon enough Dora was partaking in a touch of worldwide VIP. “After she detonated on the web, individuals were coming in a real sense from everywhere the world to see her,” says Nicola. “We had one youngster who lived in Tel Aviv. His auntie got out, ‘Whatever do you need for your Jewish right of passage?’ And he said, ‘I need to go to New York and visit Nonna Dora.’ And wouldn’t you know it, he came to I Trulli and sat at the counter with my mom and watched her make pasta for two evenings.”
During the pandemic, Dora turned to pasta units. “She was at home in her loft for one year,” says Nicola. “I’d drop off flour outside her entryway and she’d give me pasta. It resembled a medication bargain.” When Nicola chose to screen I Trulli to zero in on his Tuscan wine home, Dora wasn’t having it. “See, I just spent a year at home without help from anyone else,” she told her child. “I couldn’t stand it. I’m not prepared to remain at home.” So Nicola found a space close by for another eatery where she would be the principal fascination. He extended the pasta menu to 20 determinations (over two times the number accessible at any one time at I Trulli) and constructed a glass-walled presentation kitchen where the Human Pasta Machine could do her stuff, which currently incorporates carrying out sufficient item to sell from a retail corner front and center and boat broadly through Goldbelly.
No issues up until now. On a new Tuesday, the pastivores started pouring in at 5 o’clock. The tight room consolidates counter and high-top seating, and by 5:30, each stool was filled. By 7, the rate at which plates of pasta were flying out of the kitchen appeared to have quadrupled.
Having eaten our direction through a sizable piece of the menu, we can joyfully guide you to our top picks — completely finished cavatelli with broccoli rabe; thick, chewy-delicate orecchiette with hare ragù; and all around scored Sardinian gnocchi (malloreddus) scented with saffron and blended with pieces of frankfurter. These are Nonna Dora’s most noteworthy hits. Almost as fulfilling are maccheroncini produced using grano arso (consumed grain) flour and blended with peas and duck confit, and candy cane striped casoncelli loaded down with beets and embellished like a pastry with lemon zing and poppy seeds. Nonna Dora’s is additionally the main spot (other than I Trulli) where we’ve at any point seen ceci e tria, a territorial peculiarity from the Marzovillas’ local Puglia that joins new and broiled squares of slender pasta sheets in a basic sauce of chickpeas and tomato. Add it to your pasta list of must-dos.
The main issue with a café that spotlights on pasta and does it well is that it moves the accentuation off of all the other things. The antipasti, for example — particularly the smaller than usual calzones called panzerotti, the springy favorite e cicoria purée, and the Sunday-sauced meatballs — end up being completely meriting your consideration. There’s additionally salumi, and when you spot salumi on a menu, formaggi can’t be a long ways behind. Haven’t arrived to eat cheddar, yet assuming you request the half year matured pecorino at any rate, you’ll be happy you did. The knockout apple mostarda it accompanies alone merits the cost of affirmation.
Then there’s the beverages. Pasta grannies are not known to bunch and container negronis, yet you could go to Nonna Dora’s Pasta Bar just to gorge on six top notch varieties of that ambivalent remedy. Furthermore, the all-Italian wine list runs profound, belying the pasta bar’s relaxed environment. Taking everything into account, you could see the new café as the pandemic-smoothed out and online business filled variant of I Trulli, focusing on a more youthful customer base ready to exchange decorative liners and secondi for packaged mixed drinks and bar stools.
“What in all actuality do individuals need when they go out to supper today?” presents Nicola with the assuredness of a veteran restaurateur who has sorted it out. “An incredible mixed drink, an extraordinary glass of wine, and some great pasta.”
606 Second Ave., nr. 33rd St.